Tag Archives: Day Trip

Bali – Wake up, smell the coffee and cycle home

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One of the best days that my family and I spent in Bali was the day we went on a cycle tour through rural villages, paddy fields and mountain scenery north of Ubud.

We were picked up from the place we booked the tour and driven about an hour to a “coffee farm”.  I am not convinced the place we stopped was anything more than a tourist spot but we had good time seeing what coffee and cocoa plants look like, tasting various coffees and teas and eating breakfast looking out over the forest in the valley below.  Although they also had lewaks on site, they were hard to see, and in fact we got a better view of them in the markets at Tanah Lot.

Mount Batur

Mount Batur

After breakfast we drove another 30 minutes or so to a look-out over Mount Batur and after a brief photo stop we headed 5 minutes back down the road to meet our “hogs” for the day’s trip.  Bikes and helmets are supplied as part of the tour and we cycled back down the hill towards ubud stopping at some of the key sights along the way.

Bike Stop

Bike stop at the village temple

We stopped in a traditional Balinese home in a rural village and visited the local temple in the town where our guides gave us some information on the traditions and culture of the area. (This is one of the areas where I believe you get what you pay for and we went cheap so we got pretty rudimentary information.)

A man herds his ducks down from the paddy fields

A man herds his ducks down from the paddy fields

We cycled further and stopped to look at a cock fighting arena.  Whilst the arena itself wasn’t really much to look at while we were there one of the local farmers was herding ducks on their way to market.

Duck Wrangling

Duck wrangling

He was getting the ducks from the paddies and herding them to the flat area afforded by the arena and from there they were corralled and loaded on to a waiting pick-up truck.  We watched this amazing scene unfold for some time and have to say it remains one of my best memories from our travel in the region.

Ducks ready for market

Ducks ready for market

Our penultimate stop on the tour was a set of paddy fields where a farmer was ploughing his paddies in readiness for planting.  This was pretty interesting and made all the more exciting by the balancing act that was required as we made our way along the tiny paths between the flooded paddies.

A man ploughs his paddy fields in readiness for the next crop

A man ploughs his paddy fields in readiness for the next crop

Finally we stopped at another set of paddy fields where we thanked our guides before re-boarding the minibus for lunch – Nasi Goreng at a local restaurant overlooking the river, where they initially “didn’t realise” lunch was included in our tour and tried to get us to purchase from their hugely over priced menu so be aware of what’s included in the tour you book.  Then after lunch it was back on the mini bus and the trip “home”.  All in all a great day and a bit of exercise.

The rice fields near Ubud, Bali

The rice fields near Ubud, Bali

For me the key take aways are:

  • Based on our tour don’t expect breakfast to last you till lunch – eat before your tour begins.
  • Be aware of what the tour includes as the lunch fiasco we had just felt more like a scam than an innocent mistake.
  • Suitable for almost all levels of fitness as the route is carefully selected to ensure most of the trip is downhill and gravity does most of the work (on our tour I think we had 3 hills to climb the longest of which was less than 100m in length).
  • Take your time and don’t be rushed so you can see what’s happening around – without that we would have missed the duck herding.
  • You get what you pay for.

Bedugul – Home to Bali’s ultimate lakeside temple

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In the highlands of Bali lies this most picturesque and to many, most holy of temples.  Pura Ulun Danu Bratan is devoted to Dewi Danu and used to give offerings to this Balinese god of water, rivers and lakes, to give thanks for the fertility of the region provided by the waters of Lake Bratan upon whose shores the temple is built.

The mountains loom large over Pura Ulan Danu Bratan

The mountains loom large over Pura Ulan Danu Bratan

This is one of the most serene settings for a temple that we encountered in our trip to Bali but again I did find myself being disappointed by the crowds that greeted us when we arrived.  My advice to those looking for the tranquil temple of our imaginings would be to arrive early.

Given the elevation of the lake (1240m above sea level) make sure you bring a jacket – particularly if you’re making an early day of it – as it can be cool compared to the tourist spots in Nusa Dua, Kuta and Seminyak.

Since the site is open from 7am aim early.  I know if I visit the site again I would either make an overnight stay near Bedegul or a really early start from the coast in order to try for one of those quiet dreamy images we see of this temple, and which the early morning light, with potentially some fog, would offer the best chance of obtaining.

The temple complex at Benugul has many statues of fish around the grounds

The temple complex at Benugul has many statues of fish around the grounds

My advice for a visit here is:

  • Arrive early to maximise your Rp30,000 entrance fee, beat the crowds and get the best of the atmosphere
  • Bring something warm to wear
  • Bring a large bucket of patience to deal with the crowds if you plan on arriving later in the day

Tanah Lot – Bali’s rugged coastal temple

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The temple of Tanah Lot sits on a small island located about 50 m off the coast and at low tide is accessible via a soggy, rocky pathway that at other times is hidden beneath the waves.  The setting is spectacular and as it sits on the eastern coast of Bali, the sun sets behind it making it even busier in the hour before and after the sun sets.

Tanah Lot Temple

Tanah Lot Temple

The temple is about a one hour drive from Kuta (less from Seminyak and only about 25 minutes from Echo Beach – of Martha and the Muffins’ 1979 hit song) although a trip in the early morning or late afternoon will inevitably extend this as traffic snarls in the daily rush hour in Denpasar.

There is a second temple across a cliff bridge in the Tanah Lot complex

There is a second temple across a cliff bridge in the Tanah Lot complex

There is a fee per car at the Tanah Lot parking lot and then a per person entry fee (of Rp20,000 per adult and half that per child) to access the site of the temple.  Having made your way through the gates there’s about a kilometre of stores selling the usual Bali knick-knacks that you will need to negotiate before you reach the coast and the temple reveals itself to you.

A traditional gamelan recital entertains the crowds at Tanah Lot

A traditional gamelan recital entertains the crowds at Tanah Lot

On the day we were there the temple was extremely busy being the Balinese festival of Kuningan,with Balinese worshipers delivering offerings to the spirits of their ancestors.  Although this meant that the complex was extremely busy there was an air of celebration to it as white clad figures made an endless procession up the steps of the temple island to deliver their baskets offerings.

The waves roll in across the Indian Ocean and crash on the shore north of Tanah Lot in Bali

The waves roll in across the Indian Ocean and crash on the shore north of Tanah Lot in Bali

Take the time to walk along the cliff tops to the north of the temple as the coastline in this part of Bali is spectacular with rolling waves crashing against the cliffs and swirling mists giving a real sense of mystery to the landscape.

My recommendation would be to ensure that you visit his spot but be prepared for the crowds, especially if you come for the sunset.

Ubud – Peace and Tranquility

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As anyone who has read previous of my posts regarding Bali will know I am not a believer in the notion of Bali as a destination for a tranquil holiday.  That said it is not impossible to find those tranquil and quiet moments of ones imagining in Bali it just needs a bit more work than I think is the case in other parts of the world.

If you really want a quiet and serene moment in Ubud then I suggest that you look at an early start – how early is up to you but I went out at 6.30 am although the town really heats up after about 10.30 am when all the day trippers from the coastal resorts make their way to the town, so I would suggest heading out before about 8:30 am.

Reflections in Rice Fields Ubud

A farmer’s hut in the Ubud paddy fields

Make your way north on Monkey Forest Rd all the way to the end and turn left into Raya Ubud Road.  Just before you get to the museum car park on the right hand side of the road is a small lane-way with an even smaller sign that directs pedestrians to the paddy fields.  If you’re anything like me when you walk up the small track between the buildings you will assume you’ve taken the wrong turn and just when you’re about to turn around the lane opens out into the paddies – which really are spectacular.

I spent a fascinating hour walking along the paths through the fields watching the farmers tending their crops, a duck farmer “herding” his beasts to the far end of the fields, a lone Balinese woman jogging and best of all there was no other tourists around.  All this made for a great start to my day without the crowds and noise I had become accustomed to in the region.

Lotus Garden and Water Palace - Pura Taman Saraswati

Lotus Garden and Water Palace – Pura Taman Saraswati

On returning to Raya Ubud Rd turn left back towards the markets and when you see the signs for the Lotus cafe turn into the gardens of the Water Palace – Pura Taman Saraswati.  The lotus garden in front of the temple is one of Ubud’s most spectacular sites and being able to see it when the light is subtle and you are the only visitor certainly makes the early morning worth while.  If the cafe is open then why not have a coffee and although I can certainly vouch for the setting I have to admit that it was not open when I visited and so am not in a position to recommend the coffee itself.

So my advise for getting that feeling of tranquility in Ubud is to get an early start and head to the paddies and the lotus garden before breakfast somewhere on the way back to your hotel all before the day trippers arrive from the coast.

Bali – Monkey Thieves and Cliff Top Temples

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Perched 70m above the water atop the impressive limestone cliffs of the south western tip of Bali is Pura Luhur Uluwatu also known as Uluwatu Temple.

Ulluwatu Temple on top of the cliffs

Ulluwatu Temple on top of the cliffs

The temple itself, whilst impressive enough, is dwarfed by the splendor of its location and although we visited during the day it is apparently best visited at sunset when the sky and ocean are set afire by the waning sun.

On arrival at the site, it is important to be properly attired and anyone with their knees uncovered and their shoulders bare will be required to borrow one of the sarongs and belts from the gate.  Entry to the park was a fee of around 20,000 IDR (about US$2) but beware of the “monkey scarers”.  We were nearly charged an additional 100,000 IDR for someone to protect us from the monkeys and it was made to sound like this was a required service – not optional.

Monkey on Ullawatu cliff

Monkey on Ullawatu cliff

The monkeys which live in the area are pretty bold but our family really had no issues with them but there was a family with small children there when we arrived and before they had left the car park one of the monkeys had stolen the flip-flops off the feet of their young son who I guessed to be about 5.  Given the monkeys are there I strongly advise against taking any food with you from your car as this could lead to unwanted attention.

Ulluwatu Temple courtyard

Ulluwatu Temple courtyard

Once through the gates walk along the impressive cliffs taking in the views and head up to the temple at the highest point in the complex.  As with all Balinese temples that we came across, you will not be able to access the actual temples themselves but you will be able to walk around and look into them from the gates.

All in all this is well worth the visit, watch out for monkeys and take your head for heights with you.

Tower of London – Henry’s Building Project

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The Tower of London may be best known in the public psyche as the prison of the English Kings and Queens in medieval and Tudor times, but this ancient group of buildings that started life as a Norman Castle in the 11th Century is so much more than that.

In the early part of the 13th century the tower was expanded by Henry III (mainly his regents as at the time of the building he was a new king and a child – having ascended to the throne at 9 years of age) to incorporate an elaborate new set of rooms for the Royal household.  The new addition, St Thomas’s Tower, sits over what would under his son’s guidance become a gateway from the Thames and which in the 16th Century gained its more sinister name – by which it is still known – The Traitors’ Gate.

Although far from being one of his favourite palaces, he stayed there only a handful of times in his 56 year reign, it was a palace that he was known to run to in times of trouble.  He stayed here in 1238 when the Barons revolted and as a result realised an inherent weakness in the defenses and so set about a major bolstering of these with the erection of the huge curtain wall we see today.

The king’s bedroom  in St Stephen’s Tower has been restored to its former glory to give the visitor a great understanding of how the residential parts of the Medieval castle would have looked.  They clearly show that even in Medieval times the Kings and Queens of England lived in luxury – especially if one imagines the lives of those outside the palace walls at this time in history.

The Tower is a must see for all visitors to London (click here for information about tickets).

Why take a stroll in the city when the countryside is closer

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EU-GB-London_20150627_257 lachie checking out the view from Dunstable DownsWhen you travel to London it can be easy to feel that you have to spend your time within the city, however if the weather is great then why not venture out a bit further.

The Dunstable Downs can be reached from the centre of London in about an hour (lets face it that’s less than it can take to get to some of the Parks within the city).  Take a train to Luton from St Pancreas Station and then its an easy bus or taxi ride to the end of the downs.  Alternatively make a day of it and add the 7km walk from Luton to the trip and then get a cab back to the station at the end of the day.

When you get there these chalk downs are perfect for a summers day walk.  Watch the para-gliders soar, visit the Medieval Rabbit Warren, stroll through the Saxon burial area of Five Knolls but above all watch for the wildlife.

London from the river

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Image of the Queen Elizabeth Tower from the Thames River Bus

Image of the Queen Elizabeth Tower from the Thames River Bus

One of the great ways to see London is from the river. Its not necessary to take an expensive tourist trip just have your guide book at the ready but most of the piers are at points of interest that are announced as the river bus approaches so people know to get off – use this as your tour guide.

A trip from Embankment to Greenwich takes you past many of the cities sights starting with the Houses of Parliament and the Queen Elizabeth Tower – home to Big Ben which is the bell in the clock tower.

Herculaneum – Pompeii’s sister in disaster

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Underneath the modern town of Ercolano near Naples and its much more widely known counterpart, Pompeii, lies the Roman town of Herculaneum. Like Pompeii, Herculaneum was also buried by the eruption of Vesuvius in AD79, but unlike her sister city, buried under tons of falling rock and ash, this roman town was buried under 17m of mud in an instant when it found itself in the path of the volcanoes pyroclastic flow. This lead to a level of preservation unseen anywhere else.

Herculaneum_20150516_015 Old Seafront

If you are unsure what 17 meters looks like the image in the image on the left we are looking along the old harbour front on the left and the green in the moat would have been the beach and the Mediterranean the big “wall” on the right of the image is the layer laid down by the AD79 eruption.

Accounts of the events point to this being primarily laid down by the first of the six pyroclastic flows that occurred during the eruption. This boiling mass of gasses and rocks was so hot that when it hit the hundreds who were hiding in what are now assumed to be the boathouses along the beach were killed instantly and moments later the flow buried the town.

How to best plan for a day in Pompeii

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Pompeii is such a treasure and still has so much to teach us about the way people lived during the 1st Century. As such, it is an active hive of new study and preservation work to ensure that what has already been discovered remains safe for future generations to visit and enjoy. Therefore, on any given day some of the streets, houses and other buildings are closed to the public – in some instances for months at a time. In order to best plan your trip and avoid disappointment my tip is arrive in the area the night before you want to visit Pompeii and stay locally.

That way you can visit the gate the evening before your visit and get the map. While there ask the guys at the ticket desk to mark the key areas/buildings that will not be open to the public the next day. That way you can then plan your visit over dinner and avoid planning visits to areas that will be inaccessible. Be warned you will get a frosty reception if you try this before about 4pm as they will still be busy still selling tickets to the people entering Pompeii that day!